This coffee table is adopted from the butler's tray, an English design of the latter part of the 18th Century. It was reproduced from carefully measured drawings made by Edward Austin Walton, nationally known authority on Period Furniture. He was the head of the Furniture Design Department of Moore Institute of Art of Philadelphia. Slight construction changes have been made to confine the making of this piece within the scope of the present day average home workshop. A full-scale pattern plus a complete list including necessary Honduras Mahogany stock and all hardware and finishing materials is available. See the "Where to Buy It” section on Page 59.
Cut the legs to 16½ inch lengths from 1-5/8 square stock. If unable to secure seven quarter stock, glue up two pieces of 7/8 inch thick stock and plane down to 1-5/8 squares. Mark two adjoining sides with the best grain for face sides. Chamfer off the inside corner of each leg on the circular saw as shown in Photo #2 and clean off surface by running cut edge over the jointer. The bead trim on the outside corner of the legs is also made on the circular saw with the aid of a V-Block (Fig. l on drawing). The cutters used on the No. 265 moulding head to do this beading operation are #35-102.
From ¾ inch stock rip two side
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stretchers 2½ inches wide by 14-7/8 inches long and two end stretchers same width by 23-1/8 inch long. Bore two 3/8 inch dowel holes on both ends of each stretcher as shown in Fig. 2. Also bore matching holes in each leg. Counterbore screw head holes and also bore pilot holes for the 2½ inch flat head screw used to fasten the stretcher to the table top.
The top is made up of eleven pieces of ¾ inch thick stock and assembled as shown in the top view in drawing. Pieces have grooves on the edges as indicated to receive a ¼ by ½ spline. These splines are cut across the grain (see Fig. 3).
Side frame of the top should be carefully fitted to insure perfect miters. Dowels can he used on the miter joints or blind splines (see Fig. 4).
Notch out the recess for the Butler Tray Hinges, making sure to leave a clearance of a "full" 1 /16 inches between the apron and the stretcher. Follow the dimensions of the hinge mortise in Fig. 5.
Sand the project well with 3-0 and 6-0 garnet paper. Stain the table with a light or dark penetrating oil stain. Seal with two thin coats of white shellac. Follow this with a coat of rubbed effect varnish. |
Photo #2
The inside corner of the leg is bevel cut on the circular saw, using hollow ground blade, #326, with arbor tilted 45°.
Photo #3
With the aid of a V-Blok, and # 35-102 cutters mounted in the # 265 moulding cutterhead (raised thru the V-Blok) the bead mouldings are made on the legs. Note: the V-Blok is screw fastened to the auxiliary wood fence (see sketch in Fig1).
Photo #4
3/4 inch holes are bored on each end of the hand hold of thee side flaps (or aprons) and then cut on the scroll saw as shown above.
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