Modern Table Lamp - The Woodcrafter Page© 2004

Dominant, decorative table lamp is part in the modern trend of furniture. This Whitcomb designed lamp with an 8 inch base and proportionately large shade represents some of the latest thinking in modern lamp design.
Outside Shell consists of two sizes of stock. The heavier pieces are made of ¾ inch by 2 rectangular stock which are held together with ½ inch by 15/16 inch pieces cut at an angle and fitted with 1/8 by ½ inch splines (see cross section in drawing).

These splines are fitted through the entire length of the pieces.
Bevel cuts on the thinner pieces are made on the saw with the blade tilted at 26°, photo #3. Splines are cut in both rectangular and bevel pieces using the 1/8 inch outside dado cutter, photo #4. Spline stock is made from 1/8 inch plywood.
The shell is then glued and clamped together with strap clamps or two rope tourniquets. Use a good grade of clothes line for this purpose; inferior grades tear apart easily.

When shell has dried for at least 24 hours, fit a ¾ inch thick cap to the top. Only 1/8 inch of the cap edge is exposed; the balance is rabbeted to fit inside the shell; see drawing and photos #7"and #8.

For added strength fit a spacer block made of ¾ inch plywood and also fit glue blocks as shown. Cut out a hole in the spacer tor easy fitting of lamp fixture from the inside as well as passage for the lamp cord.
If project is made of walnut, finish natural by sanding smooth with 2-0 and 4-0 garnet paper. Apply two thin coats of white shellac and follow with rubbed effect varnish.

The thinner pieces for the shell are made by gluing several pieces of ¾ inch
stock and then resawed on the circular saw.

Bevel cuts on the thinner pieces are made on the circular saw
with the blade tilted or 26°.

Spline grooves in rise beveled pieces are cut as shown above using on
outside edge cutter tilted al 26°. Spline grooves in the heavier
pieces are made at 90°. (See end section in photo #5)

With the Deltashop drill press in position, a hole for the cord is drilled in
one of the heavier pieces near the bottom edge. Note the spline grooves.

The shell can be glued together with a commercial type strap clamp or
rope tourniquet as shown above. Use a good husky rope for this purpose.
Paper pads will prevent the rope from marring the stock.

After cutting the top cap to conform to the outside shape of the base,
make the first cut of the rabbet by running the stock on edge.

The cheek cut of the rabbet is made with stock laying flat. Rip fence is
used as a stop and mitre gauge for pushing piece through the blade.

Right-click here to download the drawing as an Adobe Acrobat (pdf) file.

* * * * Click on the drawings above to download a higher resolution picture. * * * *

*********** WARNING***********
Read my page on safety before building this item.