Celleret Bar - The Woodcrafter Page© 2004

Here is the orginal article from the
November - December 1956 Deltagram
ROCKWELL MANUFACTURING COMPANY - A DELTACRAFT PULICATION

This is another piece in the traditional furniture series designed by David G. Whitcomb especially for our readers. The cellaret makes an excellent matching piece to the previous traditional furniture featured in past issues of the Deltigram. Additional pieces which will appear in future issues of the Deltagram are pull-up chair, combination radiocabinet and others. Ten quarter stock is necessary for the 2¼ inch square legs. If unable to get these squares, you can glue up three pieces of dressed 7/8 inch stock, making sure to joint the surfaces to be glued (see Fig. 2 for details). Rip some 1/8 inch overlay pieces and glue these to the legs at (A) and (B) (after the legs have been finished .to size and cleaned up) as indicated in Fig. 1 and 2. Note that the side overlays are glued- first and then the front and backs (see Fig. 2) especially on the front legs. By gluing them in this manner, no glue joint will be visible at the front of the cabinet. Bore 5/16 inch dowel holes to receive the stretchers. ¼ inch grooves are made in the front and back legs for the side panels.	A ¼ by ¾ inch rabbet is cut out in the rear legs for the back panel, see Fig. 3. The stiles, top and bottom stretchers and panels of the sides are assembled and glued together first, before gluing to the legs. For easier handling in assembling the cabinet, the sides of the cabinet are glued together first, then the front and rear stretchers to the cabinet sides. Be sure to wipe off all excess glue with a damp cloth when assembling the cabinet together. This will save a lot of unnecessary cleaning up later on. Moulding trim for the side panels and front doors are made of 1 1/8 inch stock on the circular saw with the #35-245 cutters mounted in the moulding cutterhead (see Photo #4). After both sides of the 1 1/8 inch stock have been moulded, they are ripped to 5/16 inch thickness and then ripped to ½ inch widths, See Photo #5. Be sure to run enough moulding stock for the side panels and the doors. You will need at least 20 feet of moulding. Sand the moulding stock well before fitting into the panels. These are glued and tacked in place after the panels have been finish sanded. For easier handling,	it is best to fit the mouldings in the side panels before assembling to the legs. The inner base board of the cabinet is made of ¾ inch plywood (birch good one side) with a ¼ inch edging strip glued to the exposed front edge to hide the core stock of the plywood. This is fitted around the legs and snug against the side panels with ¾ x ¾ x 3 inch glue blocks from the underside of the cabinet and spaced about 3 inches apart (see Fig. 4). Note, this base extends ¼ inch above the front bottom rail or stretcher which acts as a stop for the doors. The top is also made of ¾ inch plywood (good one side) with a 5/8 inch wide edging strip glued to the sides and front to hide the core stock. The edging strips are mitered at the corners which are glued and nailed in place. Countersink the nails and cover the holes with colored putty or plastic wood. Be sure to place the nails in the lower portion of the edging strips so they will not interfere with the cove moulding on the top edge. The moulding is made on the circular saw with the #35-222 cutters mounted in the #265 moulding cutterhead (see Photo #8).
(Photo No. 3) The tapers on the legs are cut on the band saw and then cleaned up on the jointer.	(Photo No. 4) Moulding for the side panels and doors are made of 1 1/8 inch on the circular saw with the 35-245 cutters.	(Photo No. 5) After moulding the stock on two edges, the stock is ripped forming two mouldings.

A stop rabbet (see Fig. 6) is required on the back edge of the top for the back Y.t inch panel. This can be made on the circular saw in two cuts with the standard blade, the balance is cut out with a hand chisel. The top is fastened to the cabinet by twelve 1¼ inch #10 flathead wood screws driven in from under side of the top stretchers.
An adjustable shelf made of ¾ inch birch plywood (with a ¼ inch edging strip on the front edge only) is fitted loosely into the cabinet to allow for easy adjusting. Metal shelf supports fit into a series of ¼ inch holes bored into the legs about 1½ inches apart for adjust¬ing the shelf to any desired height.
The doors are made the same way as the side panels except for narrower stock for the stiles and rails. A false parting strip is glued and nailed to one of the doors.

Invisible hinges (see Fig. 7) are "gained" or chiseled out in the cabinet and the doors. Door stop strips ¼ x 1" are fastened to the top stretcher and the legs.
Glass holders cut out to suit the individual (depending on the type of glasses used) (Fig. 8) can be mounted to the doors by screw fastening the shelves thru the bracket with 1¼ inch #8 flat head wood screws.
Two shelves could be mounted on each door, more can be used if desired.
After carefully sanding with 3-0 and 6-0 garnet paper and breaking all sharp corners, you are ready to finish the proj¬ect to match your other pieces. If you decided to leave them natural, apply two thin coats of white shellac and follow with a coat of rubbed effect varnish. Occasional waxing will retain its satin finish.

BILL OF MATERIALS

# of Pieces	Name	Size
4	Legs	2-5/16 x 2-5/16 x 31¼
	Overlays (For Legs)	1/8 x 2-9/16 x 2-5/8
	Overlays (For Legs)	1/8 x 2-9/16 x 7/8
	Overlays (For Legs)	1/8 x 1-11/16 x 3/8
4	Top & Bottom Railings (Front & Back)	¾ x 2½ x 31-7/8
4	Top & Bottom Railings (Side)	¾ x 2½ x 12-7/16
4	Stiles (Side Panels)	¾ x 2½ x 22½
4	Top & Bottom Railings (Side Panels)	¾ x 2½ x 7-15/16
2	Panels (Side Panels)	¼ x 8-7/16 x 17½
1	Bottom	¾ x 16-5/16 x 35¼
1	Shelf	¾ x 16¼ x 35-1/8
4	Stiles (Front Doors)	¾ x 2¼ x 22
4	Top & Bottom Rails (Front Doors)	¾ x 2¼ x 11-11/16
	Door & Side Panel Moulding	5/16 x 5/8 x 20 feet
1	False Parting Strip	¾ x ¾ x 22

(Photo No. 6)
Perfect matching of dowel holes is accomplished with steel dowel points after drilling holes in the rails. The try square is used to line up the rail with the leg.

(Photo No. 7)
Holes for holding the drinking glasses are cut on the scroll saw with the #92 blade. They could also be made on a drill press with an adustable hole cutter or multi-spur bit.

(Photo No. 8)
The cove moulding on the piece is made on the saw using the #35=222 cutters mounted in the #265 moulding cutter head on the circular saw.

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