| TheWoodcrafter.net |
 Copyright © 2004. |
| My Basic Projects |
| The Retro Section |
| Jr. Woodcrafter |
| My Work |
| Detailed Plans |
| About |
| Lathe Work |
| Safety |
| Hints |
| Pic Gallery |
| Links |
| Search |
| Home |
| Birdhouses |
| Guest Book |
| Contact Us |
|
|
||||||||
|
Here is the original article from the
May - June 1955 Deltagram
ROCKWELL MANUFACTURING COMPANY - A DELTACRAFT PULICATION
 Photo #1 |
| An 18th Century Masterpiece evolved from a distinguished original antique. This is a collection piece and an authentic copy of the original reproduced from drawings made especially for the Woodford mansion collection by Edward Austin Walton, nationally known authority on Period Furniture. Slight internal construction changes have been made so that the job can be handled more easily by the average home work shop enthusiast. A full scale pattern plus a complete kit including necessary Honduras Mahogany stock and all hardware and finishing materials is available. See the "Where to Buy It" section on Page 59. Glue up stock to make the four 2¼ inch square pieces for the cabriole legs. Turn the foot pad only in your lathe (photo #2), refer to drawing, Fig. #A. Make a full-size layout of the leg on a piece of cardboard to be used as a template for marking the two adjoining sides of the leg stock. For further information on cutting cabriole legs, refer to craftsheet (Jan-Feb. 1952 Deltagram) or the Delta Band Saw Manual. Be sure to keep the cut-a-way pieces so that you can tack them back in position for cutting the other side of the leg, (photo #3) |
The job on the legs from here on is practically all hand work, except for the upper portion of the foot pad which can be sanded with the drum sander on the drill press (photo #4). With the leg held tight in the vise, work the piece to shape with a spoke shave from the top down. After rough cutting to shape, finish with 2-0 and 6-0 garnet paper until all scratch marks are removed. Bore the holes for dowels on the drill press using a 3/8 inch machine spur bit, (photo #5). Note: the front 1¼ inch wide rail takes two 5/16 inch dowels, drill the front legs accordingly. After the side, back, and front rails are bored for the dowels, a bead mould is made on the bottom edge using the 35-102 cutter on the circular saw, (see drawing). Also counterbore three holes with a 5/16 bit to depth shown in each piece of the side and back rails for fastening the top to the rails. The screw holes are drilled with a 9/64 inch drill to take No. 6 x 1¼ inch flat head wood screws. The drawer runners are made from ¾ x 1-3/8 inch stock with a 5/8 inch wide by 3/8 iinch deep rabbet. |
These are counterbored and screw fastened to the side rails with No. 7 X 1½" inch screws, (see drawing). The drawers are made with the conventional tongue and groove joint shown in the drawing. The front of the drawer is made from ¾ inch stock, the sides and back are ½ inch thick. A piece of ¼ inch plywood is used for the drawer bottom. In keeping with the style of the furniture, a turned drawer handle should be used. This is held in place with a round tapered pin as shown in the detail drawing (fig. #D). Be sure to keep a damp cloth handy when gluing the pieces together for removing all excess glue. Sand all parts thoroughly with 2-0 and 6-0 garnet paper removing all defects. For a mellow finish apply a coat of brown mahogany stain, let it dry overnight. Next use a brown mahogany wood filler. Let it set until it becomes dull then wipe off the excess with a piece of burlap, rubbing across the grain. Finally wipe with the grain and let it set overnight. Apply two thin coats of white shellac followed with a coat of rubbed effect varnish. |
 Photo #2 Only the foot pad portion of the leg is turned an the lathe. See drawing for dimensions. |
 Photo #3 Draw the outline of the leg on adjoining sides, then cut on the band saw with a 3/16" or ¼" blade. Each side requires two cuts. |
 Photo #4 The foot portion above the pad can be sanded to a perfect contour on the drift press using the No. 830 3 inch sanding drum. |
 Figure A
|
 Figure D |
 Figure C |
 |
 Photo #5 A 5/8" thick support block is used while boring the dowel holes with a 3/8" machine spur bit. |
 Photo #6 The first operation in moulding the edge of the top is made on the circular side using one side of the #35-198 ogee cutter mounted in the #265 moulding cutterhead. |
 Photo #7 The second operation of the table top moulding is the bead. Using the same cutler (#35-198) but using the other edge of the cutter with auxiliary fence mounted on other side of rip fence. |
 Photo #8 Pocket holes are counterbored into the side and back stretcher using a beveled block (at 15°) as shown in above photo. |
 Photo #9 The front piece of the draw is held in upright position in the tenoner while cutting the groove. |
 Photo #10 Photo above shows assembled joint. |
 Drawing #1 |
|
* * * * Click on the drawings above to download a higher resolution picture. * * * * |
*********** WARNING***********
Read my page on safety before building this item.