Quilt Rack - The Woodcrafter PageÂ© 2004

Travel Solitaire

Here is a convenient self storing game for play on the road.
All the marbles are stored inside the base.

This easy-to-make project can be made from simple woods or you can really dress it up with exotic hardwoods. Some lumber choices include pine, poplar, and oak for a simple look while you might prefer a variety of other woods such as Walnut, Cherry, African Padauk, Redheart Bubinga, Purpleheart or Wenge. Depending on the woods used, the rack may be painted, stained or have a natural finish.
The Base First, you need to locate 32 marbles ½ inch diameter. These can be all of one color or contrasting colors. You can go slightly smaller than the ½ inch diameter but not larger (without modifying the plans). Cut the bottom out first - from ¼ inch thick stock. The sides are cut to the arc of a 13 inch diameter circle. If you do not have a way to measure this, you can print out a paper template from the pdf file provided (below) but double check that your printer prints it at the correct size.	The Top Use the best-looking wood you have for the top. If you want to make it more interesting, consider adding an inlaid design or making a glue-up piece of mixed woods. The top is cut from ¼inch thick stock. Once you cut out the square, locate and mark the center. Use a square to mark the center lines going both directions then mark lines every 25/32 of an inch out. While this is not extremely critical, do your best. Use a ½ inch twist drill bit to drill 33 'dimples' as indicated. This is best done on a drill press with the depth lock. Drill just deep enough that you get the least bit of a straight edge in the hole. Do NOT drill all the way through the top. You are better to end up with just a curved dimple than too deep of a hole.
Cut the top into a 5¾ inch diameter circle. You can do this on a lathe if you do not have a circle cutting jig for any of your saws. Round off or bevel the top edge slightly but take care that you do not get close to the dimples. Sand the top, the dimples, and edges well.	The Body The body is the most complex part. Cut a 6½ inch by 6½ inch square from ¾ inch thick stock.
Before cutting the rounded shape, measure in 1" each way from the corners and drill two 9/16" holes in adjacent corners as show above. Drill all the way through. Drill one 9/16" hole 1½" deep into the center of the edge as indicated. Be sure this is on the side shown. If you do not have a way to measure this, you can print out a paper template from the pdf file provided (below) but double check that your printer prints it at the correct size.	Using a 9/16" diameter core box router bit, cut out a 9/16" channel in the BOTTOM of the body as shown. Be sure the end lines up with the drop hole (top left) and the other end meets with the exit hole you drilled into the side. Be careful that this remains above the blue line shown or it will interfere with the release later.
Make the two metal inserts circled in blue. The upper one is for the Marble Drop - used to push the marbles INTO the storage area. The lower one is the Marble Release insert.	Fashion the Marble Drop insert from a piece of flexible metal (aluminum preferred) It should be ½" wide, 3¼" long, and about 1/8" thick. File a bevel on what will be the top edge where the ball will come in through the hole in the top and angled to push the insert out of the way. Do NOT make this a knife-sharp edge.
Fashion the Marble Release insert from a piece of flexible metal (aluminum prefered) It should be ½" wide, 4¾" long, and about 1/8" thick. Drill a 1/8" hole into both ends. Cut a ¾" length of a ½" diameter dowel and attach it to one end as the push button. Add a drop of Gorilla glue to make sure it stays secure. Sand the top smooth and rounded. Round both ends of the metal nicely and remove all rough or sharp edges.	Cut the last two channels - circled in blue. These all need to be cut 9/16" deep using your router. The tapered down section of the top one should be 1/8" - the width of the metal used for the top insert.
Determine if you want to use the curved version or straight I used the curved one but it may require numerous 'test fittings'. Attempt to locate the perfect position for the release on the bottom. Once you feel it is in position, tack it in place with a small brad then place the body on top. Adjust until you get a good fit then attach it with a very short screw. Add a drop of Gorilla glue to make sure it stays secure.	Next, place the ball drop insert into place. You can glue it in but it should fit well enough that is not needed. Make sure the bevel is angled to allow marbles to push the insert out of the way to allow marbles to enter the storage area. Test that marbles can be pushed through but do not fall back out past the insert.
Attach the bottom to the body. Avoid ending up with nails showing by gluing and clamping them together. If you do use nails, or screws, you can later simply cover them with small felt feet - also good to prevent scratching furniture and other surfaces.	Finish the whole item with multiple coats of a clear wood finish, light sanding between coats, and let dry thoroughly - several days is best.

The game is played by first placing the 32 marbles on the board - leaving the center spot empty.

Move one marble at a time by jumping, horizontally or vertically, over another marble to land in an empty spot.
Diagonal jumps are NOT alloyed.
You can jump over as many marbles as you can in one move (rather like draughts).
Remove the marbles you jump over on each turn.
Keep jumping until there is one marble left on the board.
The last marble must end up in the center spot.
The game is over when one marble is left in the center (for a win) or no more jumps are possible (no win).

Click here for drawings.
The drawings are full scale drawings.
These plans are created in Adobe Acrobat Reader (.pdf) files.

*********** WARNING***********
Read my page on safety before building this item.